Embedding fresh organic materials like flowers, leaves, fruit, or insects often leads to epoxy failure because these items naturally contain moisture and other compounds. When mixed with or surrounded by curing epoxy, the heat generated by the exotherm causes the trapped moisture and air to be released, resulting in cure inhibition and aesthetic defects.

The Two Main Failures

1. Cure Inhibition and Soft Spots (Moisture)

• The Reaction: The heat from the curing epoxy vaporizes the water inside the organic material. This moisture vapor is then trapped within the liquid epoxy, directly interfering with the hardener’s chemical cross-linking.
• The Result: The area of epoxy immediately surrounding the organic material will remain tacky, soft, gummy, or permanently uncured because the reaction was stalled by the water molecules.

2. Discoloration, Bubbling, and Decay (Aesthetics)

• Discoloration: The moisture and other compounds released by the decaying material (e.g., chlorophyll, tannins, sap) can leach into the clear epoxy, causing brown, yellow, or murky discoloration around the object.
• Bubbling/Voiding: The release of trapped air and moisture vapor creates a continuous stream of bubbles that rise into the epoxy. Because the epoxy is thickening, these bubbles often get trapped around the object, forming small, unsightly voids or silver patches.
• Decay: If the material is not fully sealed, it will continue to decay over time, potentially releasing more gases and darkening the epoxy even after the cure is complete.

The Genuine Solution: Complete Dehydration and Sealing

The only way to successfully embed organic material is to ensure it is completely dry and sealed before it ever touches the mixed epoxy.

1. Complete Dehydration (Drying the Material)

The organic material must be fully dried using one of these methods:

• Silica Gel: This is the best method for retaining the color and shape of flowers. The flowers are packed in silica gel crystals for several days or weeks until all moisture is absorbed.
• Pressing/Air Drying: Suitable for thin, flat leaves or petals, but this process takes time and results in a flat item.
• Oven/Food Dehydrator (Low Heat): Can be used for thicker items, but the heat may cause significant color loss.

The material is ready only when it feels crisp and paper-dry.

2. Sealing the Material (The Barrier Coat)

Even dry materials can contain tiny air pockets that outgas when the hot epoxy surrounds them. To prevent this and lock in any residual compounds, you must seal them:

• Dip or Paint with Sealer: Dip or brush the dehydrated object with a thin layer of a compatible sealer, such as a clear acrylic spray lacquer, an artists’ resin sealer, or a very thin coat of epoxy resin itself.
• Cure the Sealer: Allow the barrier coat to fully cure and dry before embedding the item in your final epoxy pour. This barrier prevents moisture/air transfer and isolates the material from the chemical reaction.

3. Application Technique

• Avoid Deep Pours: If the material is especially delicate or porous, use a slow-curing, deep pour resin for embedding, as it generates less heat (lower exotherm), minimizing the risk of outgassing.
• Float and Push: If using a coating epoxy, apply a thin base layer, let it partially cure, place the material, and then apply the topcoat. Use a small tool to gently press down on the material to ensure the epoxy wets out the entire surface and eliminates small air bubbles clinging to the material’s surface.